Monday, February 26, 2007

The Louvre

For such a small bed, it sure was comfortable. The French television wasn't much fun as there was not one channel in English. I found a couple channels in German and a channel in Spanish. So, I watched the end of a rugby game and some football highlights with French commentating for a bit of time before heading to bed last night.

Today I will see if I can cram some Art into my life. I am going to the Louvre. I head down to the front desk and check out of the room. I ask if I can store my luggage (my small carry-on bag) here at the hotel for the day and he tells me that will be no problem. I head into the dining room for my included breakfast and notice that the place is packed. There's no real waiter as it's a serve yourself kind of buffet breakfast. I find a table for six that a couple people are seated at and ask if I may share their table. I get smiles from the couple and an "of course, please". On I go about my breakfast.

As I'm walk out of the hotel, I realize that I no longer have the address written down. I'll have to give a taxi driver the address verbally. Back into the hotel I go. I speak with the gentleman behind the counter just to get the pronunciation of the street correct. Shouldn't be too hard (Rue Viala), but, I just want to make sure. This leads us into a long conversation back and forth. I really don't understand why people thing Parisians are rude. I've gotten nothing but friendly, helpful attitudes from everyone I've spoken with. With a happy "Au revoir", I head out of the hotel again. I decide that the Eiffel Tower isn't that far away and there are a couple of taxi stands there. Makes it easier than having to call one and wait for it to get here.

Sure enough, I plop into the first taxi at the stand. I say in the best French I can muster "Bonjour, Monsier. Louvre, si vous plais", and off we go. I'm enjoying the sights of the city as we drive along and happen to hear the very faint music he's playing in the front seat. It couldn't be what I think it is. The song ends and the next starts up. He's listening to Nickel Creek, a small new grass/bluegrass group that I listen to. I'm surprised to hear it over here. They are not especially popular in the States.

We pull up to the Louvre and I attempt to pay him in the wrong currency...pounds. Crap! I mixed up my pockets this morning getting ready. I grab some cash out of the "English" pocket and pull out some Euros and pay the taxi driver. I head towards the stream of people entering this fine art museum. I figured there would be a much longer line to get in. I'm in within a couple of minutes.

I am inundated with options almost immediately. There are really four wings of the Louvre; Sully, Denon, Richelieu, and the temporary exhibits at Napoleon Hall. Denon holds much of the paintings including the Mona Lisa. So, that will be my first stop. I purchase my ticket and head towards the Dannon entry. Getting into the lobby of the Louvre is free. From the lobby you have the opportunity to purchase tickets. The first three come in a package deal for 8.50 Euros. A bargain at half the price. Napoleon Hall is extra and I didn't opt for that. I knew that the first three would be enough for one day :). You can enter and leave each section you have a ticket to as many times as you like. The sections seem to wrap themselves into each other. It's very easy to get lost inside this place. Trust me :). This used to be the palace of French kings back in the day. It seems like a palace. Tons of large rooms winding this way and that. Stairwells all over the place leading you up or down into courtyards and grand halls.

Some of the initial pieces I got the pleasure of seeing were interesting, but, not awe inspiring to me. I had to make a quick decision between the Mona Lisa and the Venus di Milo. I chose the famous statue figuring I could come back for the painting. Needless to say, the room with the Venus di Milo was packed. People jostling for space and trying to get pictures of them and it. I took a couple shots and moved off to the side to admire. I wandered through the section behind the Venus di Milo and was awestruck by the building more so than much of the art it contained. The ceilings were brilliantly painted. I had a hard time looking at some of the, in my opinion, mediocre pieces in the rooms because the ceilings took my breath away.

I did head over and see the Mona Lisa. People tell me that it looks different in person. I couldn't see any difference. I would have liked to have gotten closer to get a good look at it, but, they keep everyone 10 feet away from the painting. Shame.

I can't begin to cover all of the pieces I saw in there. I did take pictures of so many things. None of the paintings, however, as photography is not allowed. Although I did see a few people here and there taking photos. I wonder if these people realize that the reason flash photography is prohibited is the fact that it degrades these timeless masterpieces. I haven't uploaded the photos yet as my camera ran out of juice and needs to be recharged.

Many of the paintings I'd seen were OK. A couple of hours ago, I had come to grips with the fact that I must have been born without an "art appreciation" gene. Some of the paintings were very nice and I really did like them. But, so many of the paintings failed to have any affect on me. Other than the ceilings, of course. Those were, as I said, amazing.

I moved onto the Sully exhibit to see other pieces of art. Halfway through I had to change memory sticks on my camera. I left Sully and grabbed a mineral water at one of the food kiosks in the lobby. I then steeled myself for another long walk through the last section; Richelieu. I am so happy I left this one until the end. You walk into a small chamber that leads out both sides into courtyards. Each courtyard is filled with huge marble statues. I stood there with my mouth agape.

I spent quite a bit of time wandering the courtyards and halls of this section gawking at these sculpted works of art. I took many, many, many photos. I wonder if anyone remembers me saying that I've got 2Gb of photography room with my camera. That gives me over 560 photos at the highest quality my camera can take. By the time I was done with this last section, I had 13 photos left.

I wandered out into the rainy day and took some shots of the outside of the Louvre. I then had the feeling of similarity to, Polly Perkins, the reporter from Sky Captain and the World of Tomorrow. Everything I saw deserved a photo...but, I had 3 shots left and still several hours of Paris before I had to take my leave. I walked down the Seine towards Notre Dame. I spent my last photo opportunities on this incredible building. I take one look at the line of people and decide I don't have the time to wait in line and take the tour before having to get back. So, I reluctantly pull myself away.

I now have to decide what to do. I have a couple hours to kill before getting a taxi back to Gare Du Nord. I do a quick calculation of how long it took the taxi to get from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre. Take into account an approximate speed. I should be about 5-6 miles from the tower now. So I should be able to walk there within an hour and a half. I would walk the streets of Paris. Now I'm a Parisian Street Walker...my parents must be so proud.

I was off, by the way. It was 3.5 miles. Which was why I was surprised when I got there in less than an hour. I still had some time to kill. So, I wandered into the park around the Tower to relax in Paris :). I was accosted again by Eastern Bloc women asking if I spoke English. I alternated between pretending to be a German who can't speak English and not noticing them due to the iPod I was listening to. They seem to only be interested in bothering English speakers.

Something I didn't mention in my previous posting about the Tower is the fact that they have roving patrols of armed soldiers here. When I say armed, I mean really armed. Fully automatic assault rifles at the ready. They are prepared to take no crap.

I slap my happy butt down on a park bench and revel in the glory of being here. I must have sat there for tens of minutes :). Seemed like an hour or so had passed though. Just watching the families and couples wander along the paths. Secure in my contentedness, I wander the mile or so back to my hotel and pick up my bag. Immediately, having to turn around back to the taxi stand in front of the Tower. I take my life in my own hands and step into another taxi. This guy is hell bent on killing me. He, however, fails at that task. However he does show me a good lesson to learn: Do not step out into a Parisian street unless you want a sudden case of flatness.

He drops me off at the station and I head on in. I've got about 30 minutes before I can check in. So, I grab some water and sit down to relax. Without too much ado, I'm in line to board the train. Boarding was called much sooner than I expected to. But, who am I to question the announcer. Apparently, my parroting act in French passes muster. The lady took my ticket and said "Bonsoir". I responded in kind and she looked at my ticket. She then began an explanation in rapid fire French. I just looked at her and told her I had no idea what she just said. She laughed and told me that they had called the wrong train number for boarding and could I please wait to one side.

With the two train rides, I have completed my cache of books. Arriving back at Ashford International, I gather up the car and head back home...or the hotel rather. I climb into bed a couple minutes before midnight.

1 comment:

  1. I have to ask, being who I am and I knew you would know, but was it the filter in the lens or the lens itself? This trip just sounded wonderful and exciting, with the possible exception of the nice person bumping into you. I think the taxi drivers take lessons in the Far East, because you just don't stop those people. I have seen my life span quickly before my eyes many times over there.
    Well now that you have a taste of Paris you can determine if you wish to go back to catch other sights and I noticed you did not mention seeing the Arch.
    You are making great memories Son and something to treasure.

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